Xilitla (pronounced hee-lit-laa) is a small pueblo magico in Mexico located in the Huasteca Potosina region of San Luis Potosi. The town gets its name from the Nahuatl word zilliy which can be loosely translated as “a place of snails” or “a place of shrimps”.
The town is known for its dense greenery, the aroma of fresh coffee, rainy skies, clear waterfalls and rivers that form tiny pools for a refreshing dip. Xilitla has largely remained untouched by modern industries, and this only adds to its old-world charm.
Besides walking in the main square and eating cheesy enchiladas potosina, there are five unique places you must visit during your trip to Xilitla, Mexico.
1. Las Pozas – Xilitla Mexico
Tourists mainly visit Xilitla, Mexico to experience the magic of Las Pozas – a surrealist garden hidden in the subtropical rainforest of Sierra Gorda mountains.
Sir Edward James and His Inspiration
Born out of the vivid imagination of surrealistic Edward James, Las Pozas sits at 2000 feet above sea level and are spread across 80 acres. This hidden gem is one of the absolute must see places in all of Mexico.
While creating Las Pozas, Edward James drew inspiration from the surrounding jungles of the Huasteca region. He fused these motifs with his lifelong passion for the surrealist movement and his love for orchids. With these creative ideas, Edward James designed a garden unlike any other. What he liked to call his own version of the garden of Eden.
Edward James’ Garden of Eden
The garden feels like a sleeping concrete creature inspired by cathedrals, with intertwining plants and winding staircases that lead to nowhere – all while being surrounded by waterfalls and pools.
Several trails leading toward the main structure are made of steps, bridges, and walkways. The entire route is peppered with symbolic elements like a pool designed like the human eye, and snakes made out of colourful mosaics.
The foundation for Las Pozas was laid in 1962 and was constructed for two decades until the death of Edward James. That’s why some pieces look unfinished, but this only adds to the appeal of this surrealist garden.
Previously, visitors could pay for the entrance to explore the garden and bathe in the pool at leisure. This changed and direct access to many structures is now off-limit due to tourists destroying them in the past.
Details
- Tickets to wander the garden in a group tour can be purchased online or at the town centre in Xilitla
- It costs 125 pesos for the ticket + 25 pesos for a mandatory tour guide
- Arrive 5-10mins before the time slot you picked while purchasing the ticket. You may be denied entry if you’re late
- Each tour lasts one hour and 30mins
- Tours are available in English & Spanish
- You have the option of booking a private tour. Email reservas@pedroyelena.org for the prices and availability
- Bring drinking water or beverages for the tour as the garden tends to be hot most of the year
2. Posada El Castillo Xilitla
📍 Xilitla
💴 From $75 USD per night ($1570 pesos) Check Availablity
🧳 For Solo Travelers, Couples, and History Lovers
🤝 Check-in: 02:00 PM
👋 Check-out: 12:00 PM
📱 Contact: +52-489-1135-858 | www.elcastilloxilitla.com
🛎 Amenities: Free breakfast + Toiletries + Game Room
Locals often refer to Las Pozas as Edward James’s Castle, but the real gothic castle of Xilitla is Posada El Castillo. The former Gastelum house that Edward James called home during his time in Xilitla.
Edward James met Plutarco Gastelum in Cuernavaca in the early 1940’s. Gastelum served as Edward’s guide in his quest for the perfect region to build his surreal garden.
During their search, they found themselves in Xilitla. Plutarco soon got married and had four kids, for whom he built a mock gothic castle home, which now runs as a hotel called La Posada El Castillo.
Edward James was close to the Gastelum family and the kids fondly referred to him as Uncle Edward. He spent many days staying at the house as a family member. In fact, the bedroom he stayed in — now known as Don Eduardo Room — is now a room in the hotel that is so popular it is constantly booked out.
Family Home Turned Into Hotel
Plutarco Gastelum’s granddaughter Luisa and her family currently run the hotel.
“Many people think Edward James built this hotel, but it was actually all my grandfather’s work,” says Luisa beaming with pride.
This boutique hotel has unmistakable surrealistic inspirations in its design and decor. There are just eight rooms on the property, each decorated uniquely with art and antiques.
I had the pleasure of spending last New Year’s Eve in the Don Eduardo room, the one that Edward James stayed in during his time at the Gastelum home.
Posada El Castillo’s beautifully distinctive architecture includes a watchtower on the topmost floor. The views from this tower are breathtaking, and on a clear sunny day, you can see the Siera Gorda Mountains of San Luis Potosi.
As a guest at El Castillo, your mornings will start with a warm breakfast of your choice, with juice, sweet bread and bottomless coffee.
On days when you don’t feel like getting out, you can spend time playing foosball in the game room or relaxing on the swing. And if you’re a good human, the hotel’s resident cat might just let you sneak in a cuddle.
While it’s definitely not the cheapest option, Posada El Castillo is the best guesthouse in the area abundant with historical significance.
But, if you’re staying somewhere else, you have the option to tour this landmark hotel. Tickets to the tour cost $100 pesos per person and take place every day at 1 pm and 7 pm. Each tour lasts about 40mins. Call or Whatsapp +52-489-1135-858 to book one.
3. Museo Leonora Carrington
Carrying forward the theme of surrealism in Xilitla is Leonora Carrington’s art gallery, located near the centre of the town. Haunting bronze sculptures of otherworldly entities will welcome you as soon as you walk into the gallery.
These strikingly beings that look like they came straight out of an artistic horror film are signature masterpieces created by Leonora.
Besides the sculptures, the museum also houses one-of-a-kind lithographs and drawings created by the surrealism master.
WHO WAS LEONORA CARRINGTON?
England-born Leonora Carrington had artistic tendencies from an extremely young age. She had a deep passion for self-expression through art and chose the surrealistic style to give her imagination a tangible form.
She had turbulent adulthood that involved fleeing the Nazis and a short stint in a psychiatric hospital. These experiences left a mark on all her future art pieces — as Leonora describes in her book.
Further complications in her personal life led her to move to Mexico in the 1940s.
By then, her fellow surrealist artists had already laid a foundation for the art movement in the country. Her connections with these artists opened doors to countless opportunities and exhibits for Leonora.
If magical realism and alchemy are some of your interests, the museum is a must-visit during your trip to Xilitla, Mexico! The art gallery will give you a peek into Leonora’s vivid mind.
4. Sótano de las Golondrinas ( Basement of the Swallows )
About an hour’s drive away from the centre of Xiltila is the town of Aquismón. There lies an enormous 512 meters deep and 60 meters wide open-pit cave. This Basement of the Swallows is among the largest caves in the world.
To experience this natural wonder, you need to be in good shape and be able to climb up and down the 1500 steps, starting from the entrance to the basement.
Thousands of birds live in the limestone walls of the cave. Each morning at sunrise, these birds leave their nests in a flock in pursuit of food. After a full day of searching, they head back homeward at sunset. Both these sights are worth seeing for all bird lovers.
Keep an eye for parakeets, and white-collared swifts, and If you’re lucky, you will spot swallows. Because despite what the name suggests, swallows are rare to see here.
For all adrenaline junkies, you have an exciting option of rappelling down the cave for 8000-12000 pesos (568 USD).
Even though the cave is technically outside Xilitla, it’s worth witnessing the glorious flight of the birds if you’re in the Huasteca region.
How To Reach The Cave Of the Swallows
To get to the Basement of the Swallows from Xilitla, you can either drive yourself, hire a taxi or group book a tour. You can find these tours at your hotel’s front desk or the city centre’s tourist kiosks.
Details
- Entrance tickets are priced at 100 pesos
- The entrance opens at 6 am, so arrive by 6:30 so you don’t miss the birds’ flight
- Remain quiet to not scare off the birds
- The best month to see thousands of birds is in August
- During the months when birds are nesting, the number of them flying out will be noticeably low
- If it’s cloudy or rainy, the birds won’t fly out
- Bring a blanket to sit on while you wait for the birds as the rocks are pointy and not comfortable to sit on
- During both sunrise and sunset, the cave is dark. Carrying a torch is a must
- The route to the basement is not wheelchair friendly
5. Cascada Los Comales, Xilitla – Mexico
Right next to Edward James’s surrealist garden is the secret waterfall called Los Comales. This was the last piece of construction that Edward James designed. The entrance to the waterfall and the decor on top of it were all created by him.
The crystalline waterfall itself is impressive and loud. For the adventurous, you have the option to rappel down the waterfalls for 250 pesos.
If you’re like me and prefer relaxing over sports, head to the Temazcal near the waterfalls. For 250 pesos, you will experience a prehispanic detox ceremony like no other.
Immerse in Surrealism in Xilitla, Mexico
Besides these things to do in Xilitla, the town’s main square is lovely to walk around. There’s an evening market which is an absolute treat for shoppers looking to purchase inexpensive souvenirs, unbelievably delicious flavoured coffee and snacks from the Huasteca region.
All of this makes Xilitla the perfect town for the adventurous, coffee-addicts, art and nature-loving travellers.
Is Xilitla Mexico Safe?
As a solo female traveller, I found Xilitla to be extremely safe in the early mornings and even after sunset. The town centre is bustling with local families most hours of the day. I would avoid walking lonely streets after dark and practice general care of personal belongings in public places.
If you decide to stay in a hostel, make sure to purchase backpacker’s travel essentials such as an anti-theft bag or even a sturdy lock for your bag to avoid any petty robberies.
How To Go from Mexico City to Xilitla
By Bus
Price: 450 pesos (20 USD) | Time: 8 – 12 hours
Coordinados bus goes directly from Mexico’s Central Norte Bus station to Xiltila and also the other way around.
Book your tickets here
By Plane
Take a domestic flight from Mexico City to Tamuín National Airport in San Luis Potosi. From the airport, there are several buses that go to Xilitla each day.
Click here to find cheap flights to Xilitla
By Car
If you’re going on a road trip from Mexico City, you have two route options that will get you to Xilitla in about 6-7 hours.
Route 1: Make your way towards Pachuca and go to Tamazunchale and from there, to Xilitla
Route 2: Drive towards Queretaro, passing by Bernal & Pinal de Amoles to reach Xilitla.
Both the routes have winding roads. If you aren’t used to driving in Mexico, take the flight or bus instead.
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Where to stay in Xilitla, Mexico
Posada El Castillo
San Luis Potosi, Mexico
Nightly Rates from 75USD+
Casa Jhada Xilitla
San Luis Potosi, Mexico
Nightly Rates from 20USD+
Grann Posada Xilitla
San Luis Potosi, Mexico
Nightly Rates from 50USD+
