Hidden in the lush greenery of San Luis Potosi is the sleepy village of Xilitla. Inside the forests of Xilitla—a few km from the town center—lies Jardín Escultórico Edward James, Las Pozas. A wonderland jungle garden named after its designer, the late English poet.
Las Pozas Xilitla
Las Pozas in Spanish means the pools or the wells, named after the nine pools of water in the terrain. Garden of Edward James is a walkable surrealistic art structure hidden in the dense jungle of Xilitla. The juxtaposition of the concrete installations amidst natural waterfalls encircled by a thick forest sets it apart from any other surrealist garden on the planet.
So, I’d like to invite you to leave the real world behind for a moment. Join me on a voyage to the fantastical garden of Las Pozas in Xilitla, Mexico.
Who was Edward James?
Wealthy by birth, Edward James was a surrealist like no other. He was born in 1907 to an American tycoon and a Scottish socialite. The only boy among his four sisters, he often felt lonely growing up. James spent his childhood lost in thoughts and daydreams. He began imagining various dimensions and created his version of reality. These vivid daydreams gave way to developing a keen eye for surrealism – an artistic interpretation of dreams and subconsciousness.
When his father died in 1917, he left James a large sum in inheritance. James used his money to sponsor surrealistic projects and to support artists like the famous Salvador Dali. Unfortunately, his generosity did not receive positive limelight. Instead, people described him as an unpredictable and erratic billionaire.
Creation of Las Pozas & Eccentric Genius of Edward James
With the outbreak of World War II, Edward James realized he no longer wanted to stay in England. He strived to find a country that would fuel his artistic endeavors and make his soul feel content.
During this self-imposed exile, he traveled far and wide all over the planet. In 1939, he moved to America, where he met Aldous Huxley and discovered the principles of Buddhism. It was here that he had a spiritual awakening.
In the 1940s, the idea of Las Pozas sparked inside Edward James’s imagination. He wished to create an otherworldly structure, his own Shangri-La.
In 1944, a friend invited Edward James to Mexico. On arriving, he quickly realized that Mexico had the perfect setting for him to bring his esoteric interests into a tangible form. An encounter with his guide Plutarco Gastelum was the final bridge that led to the creation of his version of the garden of Eden.
In a quest to find the perfect place to set up his surrealistic garden, Edward James & Plutarco Gastelum traveled all around Mexico. During these expeditions, they found themselves in the forests of Xilitla, in the Huasteca Potosina region.
Why Did Edward James Pick Xilitla, Mexico?
Legends say, when James and Gastelum were taking a dip in the river, a kaleidoscope of butterflies surrounded them. James took this as a sign that the area was meant to be his garden of Eden. He began collecting animals and planting orchids to plant in his paradise. Simultaneously, Plutarco constructed a house in the village of Xilitla for his family.
In the beginning, Las Pozas only had two huts. James, at that time, was more interested in horticulture and creating a haven for his wildlife than creating an everlasting art piece. Fellow surreal artist Leonora Carrington was a recurring guest here. To show her appreciation for James’s hospitality, Leonora painted murals on the walls of the structures.
Soon after, Las Pozas turned into a sanctuary for local monkeys and deer. James planned to bring macaws, boa constrictors, flamingos, and monkeys from parts of Mexico to the thriving wilderness of Xilitla. He felt more like himself amongst his animals than humans.
“Actually, I am quite happy alone…I am keeping away from old associations as much as possible because nearly everything reminds me of something that has stung me some time or other. That is why I am happier at the ranch, where I am not reminded of the frustrations, failures, and swindles”. He wrote in a letter.
The unprecedented frost of 1962
A devastating frost in 1962 destroyed parts of Las Pozas, including Edwards prized possessions — 18000 orchids. He then decided to build something eternal that could withstand calamities. His solution was to create structures out of concrete inspired by flowers, plants, and elements from surrealism.
Las Pozas we see today was constructed by skilled laborers over 20 years while being overseen by Plutarco Gastelum.
Allegedly, during the construction of the garden, Edward James went back to England. While he was there, he dreamt of whimsical structures and forms. He would wake up, draw these visions and send them to the construction workers he hired in Mexico. The workers would use these sketches and bring James’s vision to life using wood frames and concrete.
ALSO READ: 5 Unique Places You Need To Visit In Xilitla, Mexico
The Structure of Las Pozas
Since the garden was in a rainforest, there was no shortage of plant life. Edward James intertwined the natural growth of lush foliage with creations inspired by the art created by his surrealist friends – and of course, his imagination. The foggy ambiance adds to the mysterious atmosphere. Stunning waterfalls coupled with the surrounding greenery of Las Pozas make it look like it was born out of a fairytale.
You will find columns inspired by massive flowers, picturesque gates, and gothic archways. Coupled with pavilions with levels, and spiral cases leading to nowhere set the garden apart from any other structure on the planet. A fantasy bought to life — this mystical garden is proof of what the human imagination is capable of creating when given space and resources.
Visiting Las Pozas, Xilitla
Walking around the surrealist garden sculpture is a unique experience. Ducking under pillars, and finding symbolic structures, secret steps, and giant hands will make you feel like an explorer of a hidden world.
Some visitors are disappointed by their first glimpse of Las Pozas because it looks so different from the photos they’ve seen on Instagram and guidebooks. However, these were likely taken a few years ago when certain areas weren’t off-limits.
As of 2022, the structure can only be visited as a part of a group tour. Earlier, tourists could stroll at leisure and even take a dip in the cool waterfalls of Las Pozas. But, some people ended up destroying parts of the structure. To avoid further damage (and thanks to COVID-19 ) the foundation Fondo Xilitla took this decision to prevent further damage.
Even so, the garden is an unmissable thing to do in Xilitla, Mexico.
Where is Las Pozas?
This unusual tourist attraction is located just north of Xilitla in San Luis Potosi, Mexico.
Tickets for Las Pozas, Xilitla
The foundation in charge of Las Pozas runs its own guided tours with knowledgeable guides in both English and Spanish. Tickets to visit Las Pozas can be bought online or at kiosks in the Townsquare of Xilitla.
If other tour operators in Xilitla try to sell you group tours, ignore them. Besides being overpriced, these tours are same as the official ones.
To purchase a ticket, you need to know the time you would like to visit the garden and your preferred language for the tour. Each ticket costs 125 pesos (USD) + 25 pesos to hire a mandatory guide at the garden.
Other details to visit Las Pozas, Mexico
- English tours are fewer than Spanish ones, so make sure to book your slot well in advance.
- Arrive 10mins before your entry slot to the garden, or your entry may be denied.
- Las Pozas, Mexico is least crowded on Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday, especially during Jan, Feb, Sept and Oct.
- Wear sunscreen and bring bottled water. Regardless of the month, the climate of Xilitla is humid all year round.
- There are carts selling snacks and water bottles on the way to the park, but inside in the middle of the tour, you won’t be able to buy anything.
- Opened from Monday – Sunday, from 9 am to 6 pm. Each tourist lasts about 90mins
- You can book a private tour. Email reservas@pedroyelena.org for the prices and availability
How do you get to Las Pozas?
Highway Bus
Take the Futura Bus going to Ciudad Valles from Mexico Norte’s Bus Terminal. The journey takes about 10 hours and costs between 700 – 1000 MX pesos one way. From Ciudad Valles, several buses run to Xilitla throughout the day. And, it only takes about 2 hours.
From other parts of Mexico, like Queretaro, buses go to Ciudad Valles a few times a week. Check with your city’s central bus station in advance as these tickets tend to sell out fast
Fly
Take a flight to Tampico Airport and from there, hail a bus heading to Tamuín. From Tamuín, you can take a local taxi or collective to Xilitla.
Where to stay to visit Las Pozas Xilitla
1. Posada El Castillo, Xilitla
💴 From $75 per night (1570 pesos) Check Availablity
🧳 For Couples, History & Art Lovers
🤝 Check-in: 02:00 PM
👋 Check-out: 12:00 PM
📱 Contact: +52-489-1135-858 | www.elcastilloxilitla.com
🛎 Amenities: Free breakfast + Toiletries + Game Room
While visiting Xilitla, I stayed at Posada El Castillo, the former home of Plutarco Gastelum, currently run by his niece and her family. Not many people know back when the hotel was still home, it served as the former residence of Edward James. He was such a frequent guest at the Guestlum home that the children affectionately referred to him as uncle Edward.
The room that Edward James stayed in is called Edward.
2. Hotel Paraíso Encantado
💴From $65 per night (1300 pesos) Check Availablity
🧳For Couples, Luxury Seekers
🤝Check-in: 03:00 PM
👋Check-out: 11:30 AM
📱Contact: +52-489 100 7679 | www.paraisoencantado.com
🛎Amenities: Air Conditioning + Swimming Pool
For a more relaxing and luxurious getaway, stay at Hotel Paraíso Encantado in Xilitla San Luis Potosi. This stunning resort-like hotel is in the perfect spot, just a few steps away from Las Pozas. When you’re not exploring, chill in their fully air-conditioned rooms and enjoy delicious continental breakfast every morning.
3. Hotel Tapasoli
💴From $90 per night (1800 pesos) Check Availablity
🧳For Hobbit Lovers, Couples
🤝Check-in: 02:00 PM
👋Check-out: 12:00 PM
📱Contact: +52-489-116-5316 | www.xilitla-tapasoli.com
🛎Amenities: Themed Hotel | Stunning Views
Fancy waking up in a cabin surrounded by the lush vegetation of Xilitla? OR are you simply a huge fan of The Hobbit? Book a stay at the adorable Hotel Tapasoli. Each room is like a cozy nest, sitting in the San Luis Potosi mountains.
Due to its remote location, it could be hard to get to the hotel. Also, the center of Xilitla is quite a walk from the hotel, so staying here is recommended if you travel to Xilitla in a car.
What to wear when you visit Las Pozas
With shades of green as far as the eye can see as your backdrop, you should pick your outfits carefully to stand out. Here are my recommendations for an ensemble for your perfect photograph at Las Pozas, Xilitla.
For those that want to stand out against the backdrop of the structure and surreal foliage, wear a red or white outfit. If you prefer to blend in and look like a part of the garden, wear a snake or leopard print outfit with blue shorts or pants. Ladies, skip the heels and wear sneakers instead, you’re gonna be walking – a lot!
Our Recommended Stylish Travel Outfits
You’re all set for your adventure to Xilitla Huasteca Potosina
Since it’s a small town, 2-3 days will be perfect to see the best places In Xilitla, Mexico. The country has so many beautiful pueblos, you could spend months exploring it all. After Xilitla, spend a week or two living in San Miguel de Allende, the most photogenic town of Mexico.
